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aMStERdaM
Spring 2013
Bet van Beeren
A brief look at the
Queen of the Zeedijk
Royal Changes
Celebrate Queen’s Day and a
coronation this spring
N°08 -
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amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Contents
3
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Contents
Foreword
4
A few words from the editor
Arriving & Getting around
5
How to get to and from your hotel
Basics
Although Amsterdam is now one of the most gay-friendly
cities in the world, it wasn’t always such a pillar of
tolerance. Read about gay rights pioneer Bet van Beeren
on p.103. Photo courtesy of Café ‘t Mandje
10
Getting to grips with Amsterdam
History
12
The city’s past on two pages
Gay Amsterdam
102
A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam
High Times in Holland
Culture & Events
14
Concerts, exhibitions and events
104
How to smoke legally and responsibly
Centrum
20
Canals, cafés & the Plantage
Nieuw-West
List of small features
Queen’s Day and a coronation
21
46
Amsterdam souvenirs
37
Lakes, parks and modern architecture
Noord
‘t IJ Brewery tour
39
Order the bouncer
50
56
Ajax & Amsterdam Noord
61
Rural landscapes and cutting-edge design
Oost
Dutch pancakes
83
66
Jan Pieter Heijestraat
86
Modern islands and ethnic neighbourhoods
West
Royal changes
94
Café confusion
96
76
World of Ajax tour
100
Restaurants, pubs and the Westergasfabriek
Zuid
Bet van Beeren
103
Football: Ajax matches
108
90
De Pijp and some of the city’s best museums
Zuidoost
92
Colossal shopping centres and the home of Ajax
Directory
Sports & Leisure
108
Lifestyle directory
109
Amsterdam for kids
111
Maps & Index
Centrum: old centre map
43
Centrum: city centre map
44
Nieuw-West map
55
Noord map
64
Oost map
75
West map
88
Zuidoost map
101
Netherlands map
114
If you’re interested in Holland’s monarchy then read all
about the nation’s royal family, past and present, on p.94.
To find out more about this year’s Queen’s Day and Willem
Alexander’s coronation see p.21
Hotel, restaurant, coffeeshop &
Nightlife index
115
www.amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Spring 2013
Foreword
4
Spring has arrived in Amsterdam and with it an unavoid-
able flood of tulip tourists. Yes, people just can’t seem to
get enough of this colourful flower that has long been both
an economic resource and a symbol of the Netherlands. If
you’re one of these travellers then just look anywhere in the
Central Station or on the Damrak for signs advertising trips
to the legendary Keukenhof. If, however, you’ve come to the
capital of Holland to experience everything it’s got to offer,
then you’ve come to the right place. Unlike other city guides,
Amsterdam In Your Pocket is a complete guide to the entire
city and its seven different districts, so you can find your
way to the Museum Quarter in Zuid for 17th-century mas-
terpieces or to Zuidoost for huge concert venues and even
bigger shopping malls. You’ll find what you need to enjoy
the city’s canals or the funky neighbourhoods of West, Oost
and Nieuw-West. You can also discover a rural landscape of
farms and charming villages just a short free ferry ride away
in Noord, just beyond the Central Station.
You’ll also find plenty of practical information in this
guide, but thankfully it isn’t just a boring collection of ad-
dresses. Read about gay rights pioneer Bet van Beeren
who opened what could possibly be the world’s first gay bar
or take a look at our feature about Holland’s royal family.
Discover the joy that is Queen’s Day and see how you can
witness a coronation. This and much more is all at your
fingertips with Amsterdam In Your Pocket.
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Switzerland
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Slovenia
Croatia
Italy
Bosnia
Serbia
Bulgaria
Montenegro
Kosovo
FYR Macedonia
Albania
Greece
Newsstand
“I had a good browse of the Amsterdam guide... Practical
things, such as getting around, are covered in great detail
and look bang up to date. Reviews of places to eat and
drink are plentiful and knowledgeable, and there are
informative reads on subjects such as Ajax football club...”
The Daily Mail
It’s now 21 years since we published the first
In
Your Pocket
guide - to
Vilnius
in Lithuania - in
which time we have grown to become the largest
publisher of locally produced city guides in Eu-
rope. We now cover more than
75
cities across
the continent (with
Tbilisi
, in
Georgia
, the latest
city to be
pocketed
) and the number of concise,
witty, well-written and downright indispensable
In
Your Pocket
guides published each year is app-
roaching
five million
. We also publish an
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Cover story
Although Amsterdam has hundreds of
sights and attractions worth visiting,
in our humble opinion there’s nothing
better than a leisurely stroll along the
Brouwersgracht or Brewers’ Canal
featured on this issue’s cover to soak
up some authentic local atmosphere.
Naturally, a canal cruise is also always
a good option.
Editorial
Editorial team
Martins Zaprauskis &
Theo Leerintveld (theo.leerintveld@
inyourpocket.com)
Contributors
Mart van Amerongen
Research
Theo Leerintveld, Joep van
Aert & Gabriela Küsters
Layout & Design
Martins Zaprauskis
Photos
T.Leerintveld & M. Zaprauskis.
Others courtesy of Amsterdam city
governments, Amsterdam Toerisme
& Congres Bureau (ATCB) and various
concert organisers
Cover photo
Martins Zaprauskis
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket
Netherlands 2011 - 2013. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB In
Your Pocket: Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124,
Vilnius, Lithuania.
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers’ comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
In Your Pocket Netherlands
Weikesstraat 21
5335 LE
Alem
Netherlands
tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46
amsterdam@inyourpocket.com
www.amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 2211-2480
© In Your Pocket Netherlands
Printed by Microdot in the EU
Published four times per year
160,000 copies annually
Sales & Circulation
Advertising & Circulation
Theo Leerintveld
theo.leerintveld@inyourpocket.com
(+31) 653 79 91 46
This guide is distributed by
City Dogs
Amsterdam
In Your Pocket
www.amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
arriving in amsterdam
5
By train
Amsterdam’s Central Station is a monumental building that
was completed in 1889. Although an incredible achievement
in its own right, it was later criticised by urban planners for
having cut off the city of canals from its most essential
waterway, the River IJ. Prior to its construction many of the
city’s historic cafés were afforded an impressive vista of
ships’ masts bobbing up and down in the distance. Today,
the massive edifice and its surroundings are a bit of a mess
as the station is being renovated and retrofitted to accom-
modate a controversial new metro line.
You’ll arrive at one of 15 platforms and then walk down-
stairs into the central hall, which is full of newsstands, kiosks,
fast food restaurants and shops. A GWK Travelex (www.
gwktravelex.nl - open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00)
currency exchange
and an ATM are available near the
south city centre side between platforms 1/2 and 4/5. For
toilets
that cost €0.50 you have to go up to platform 2. At
the far end of the same platform are a Burger King, Ben &
Jerry’s, an upmarket restaurant called 1e Klas (1st Class)
and a bar, Café Balkon.
For
tourist information
we recommend you exit the
building on the city centre side and walk across the street
to the official tourist information centre (see Tourist informa-
tion). Lockers for
luggage storage
are located on the far
east side of the station, but it might take a while to find an
empty locker and even more time to figure out how to use
one. You can only pay with a credit card. Place your belongings
in a locker and close the door. Find the nearest keypad that
corresponds with the numbered section of lockers you have
chosen. Confirm that the locker number listed is the locker
you have chosen and then swipe your credit card. Just stick
it in the slot and pull it out. A ticket good for 24 hours will be
ed. When you want to remove your luggage just place the
ticket into the slot and the door of your locker will automati-
cally open.
Getting to town:
You are in the very centre of town and
all of Amsterdam lays before you. Many of the city’s best, and
worst, hotels are only a short walk from here, but if you’re
staying in another section of town such as the Museum
District you can take one of the many trams outside. Buy
a ticket from the driver for €2.60. He will activate the card
for you, but you have to place it up against one of the ticket
readers upon exiting the tram. If you plan on using public
transport frequently in Amsterdam it might be worth buying
an extended ticket. Exit the train station and walk across the
street to the GVB office (open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 18:00) to the left of tourist information to buy tickets. Free
ferries to Amsterdam-Noord are available on the north side
of the station on the River IJ.
Q
Arriving in Amsterdam is simple and no matter what mode
of transportation you choose nearly all roads lead to the
Amsterdam Central Station right in the heart of the city.
From here it’s usually only a short walk or tram ride to your
hotel or hostel.
By plane
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is located less than 10km
southwest of the city centre. It’s one of the busiest airports
in Europe receiving nearly 50 million passengers each year,
but it’s easy to navigate and pleasantly efficient. You’ll find
your luggage at one of 15 baggage belts and luggage trolleys
are abundant and free. If you’re planning on taking the train to
Amsterdam, which is the easiest way to reach the city centre,
you might want to buy a ticket at one of the yellow and blue
machines next to the conveyor belts while you’re waiting for
your suitcase. The machines are fairly self-explanatory and
available in English and you can pay for the short journey with
a credit or bankcard. Once you clear customs you’ll enter the
large arrivals hall, which is essentially part airport, part train
station, part shopping centre and part food court. Although
located under one roof, the building is divided, nominally at
least, into terminals 1 - 4. Just walk straight to the main hall
to find most services that you might need including trans-
portation to the city. An official
tourist information
centre
is available in terminal 2 (open 07:00 - 22:00).
Luggage
storage
and lockers are available downstairs between
terminals 1 and 2. Lockers cost €6/24hrs and you can pay
with a card or with coins. You can also leave your bags at
the storage office for the same price, but it’s only open from
06:15 - 22:45. A small bank of lockers is also available on the
ground floor between terminals 3 and 4. Banks,
currency
exchanges
and ATMs are plentiful so you won’t have any
problems getting money.
Getting to town:
If you’d like a
taxi
, then head to the far
right of the arrivals hall after clearing customs and you’ll find a
Travel Taxi office where you can order a cab and watch some
TV until they call your name.
Buses
and
hotel shuttles
are
available outside the terminal. Just walk straight through the
arrivals hall and you’ll see the stops outside with the names
of the city’s biggest hotels that operate their own shuttles.
Each chain has its own schedule, which is clearly marked at
the stop. You can also take the blue Connexxion Schiphol
Hotel (www.connexxion.nl) shuttle that stops at a number of
large hotels along a planned route. A very long list of hotels is
posted at the stand. A single ticket costs €15.50 and children
4 - 14 travel for half price. If your hotel isn’t listed it’s possible
that it can be arranged. City bus Nr.197 departs regularly for
Leidseplein in the centre of Amsterdam as do other buses
to a variety of other destinations in Amsterdam.
If you’re like most people you won’t even leave the ter-
minal and you’ll head downstairs to catch a fast
train
that
will take you to Amsterdam Central Station in 15 minutes
for only €3.70. Just walk into the main hall to find a list of
train departures. If you haven’t already bought a ticket you
can purchase one from one of the many ticket machines
with a credit card. Just choose English as your language on
the touch-screen then choose the following steps: single,
destination A.Centraal, 2nd class, full fare, valid today and
the number of tickets. Choose your method of payment,
insert your credit card, enter your PIN, confirm the price and
then wait for your ticket to be ed. Once you reach the Central
Station see ‘Arriving by train.’ You can also buy train tickets
at the Train Tickets & Services office but you’ll pay an extra
€0.50.
Q
Schiphol Amsterdam Airport
Evert v/d Beekstraat
202, tel. (+31) 207 94 08 00/09 00 01 41, www.
schiphol.nl.
Tourist information
Tourist Information ATCB
F-3, Central Station
(Platform 2b), tel. (+31) 90 04 00 40 40, www.
iamsterdam.com.
The information centre in the train
station can get quite crowded, so you might want to
just cross the street and enter the white building to find
yet another official information centre. Take some bro-
chures, buy a guide or take a number if you’d like to talk
to a staff member. They can give you ideas and advice
about excursions, set you up with a map and help with
plenty of other pressing questions. The office to the left
can explain the public transportation system and sell you
tickets for trams and buses.
Q
Open 09:00 - 18:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Also at A-1,
Stationsplein 10; Schiphol Airport (Arrivals 2).
JA
www.amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Spring 2013
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