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The

Cottage Life

Bunkie Full plans for a compact

guest cabin, complete

with an adult-sized loft

By WAYNE LENNOX

The

Cottage Life

Bunkie

By WAYNE LENNOX

INSTRUCTIONS

INTRODUCTION ...................... 3

FLOOR ..................................... 3

SIDE WALLS ............................. 3

REAR WALL ............................. 4

FRONT WALL ........................... 4

PORCH ..................................... 5

LOFT ........................................ 6

RAFTERS AND GABLE ENDS..... 6

ROOF ....................................... 7

LOFT LADDER .......................... 7

WINDOWS .............................. 8

DOOR ...................................... 8

TRIM AND FINISHING ............. 9

Project Editor Allan Britnell

Project Art Director Gary Davidson

Plans Illustrations Len Churchill

PLANS

FLOOR ................................... 10

SIDE WALLS .......................... 11

REAR WALL ........................... 12

FRONT WALL AND PORCH ... 13

ROOF AND LOFT ................... 15

LOFT DETAILS ....................... 16

LOFT LADDER ....................... 17

Cottage Life Magazine

Editor Penny Caldwell

Senior Editor Martin Zibauer

Art Director Kim Zagar

You’ll find more great cottage projects

you can build in Cottage Life magazine

or at cottagelife.com .

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phone 1-800-465-6183 (Canada and U.S.);

Toronto (905) 946-0406.

MATERIALS LISTS

PARTS LIST ............................... 6

SHOPPING LIST ....................... 9

Cottage Life Magazine

54 St. Patrick St., Toronto ON M5T 1V1

reserved. Reproduction of any article,

photograph, or artwork, for other

than personal use, in whole or in part,

without written permission of the publisher

is strictly forbidden.

One

The Cottage Life Bunkie

of the nicest things

about a cottage is that it becomes a place

for friends and family to gather and share

memories. But the cherished kind of mem-

ory probably doesn’t include the sound of

Uncle Bob’s snoring, or having to step over

half a dozen nieces and nephews on your

way to a midnight snack. With a bunkie,

you can invite overnight guests and still

have some privacy at bedtime.

And the Cottage Life Bunkie not only

makes an ideal guest cabin for cottage over-

flow, it also doubles as a quiet retreat for

those days when even two’s a crowd (see

“Layout Options For Main Floor,” p. 4).

When we designed this structure, we

envisioned it as suitable accommodation

for a couple of adults and three to four kids.

A futon on the main level would work well

for a bed for the big folks, while cots or an

inflatable bed in the loft would be suitable

for the little ones. (Since a queen-size mat-

tress will fit, a couple of adults can also

sleep comfortably in the loft).

The Ontario Building Code ( OBC )

requires a building permit for any structure

with floor space greater than 10 square

metres (108 sq. ft.). This bunkie was

designed with that stricture in mind: At 8'

by 13'6", it is exactly 108 sq. ft. and there-

fore, in most jurisdictions, does not need

that particular documentation. But check

first: Some municipalities require permits

for anything over 100 sq. ft. Cottagers in

those areas could modify the plans – say, by

reducing the length to 12'6" – to fit the

more restrictive rules. Even if a building

permit is not required, you must still check

with your local municipality and comply

with zoning bylaws (such as lot line and

shoreline setbacks).

This is a big project, but not a very com-

plex one. In fact, if you built the Cottage

Life outhouse (“The Perfect Privy,” Aug. ’99)

– as many readers have – or the treehouse

(“High Society,” Apr./May ’05), you will

find this to be no more challenging.

the ground – although, since the floor

frame does not, in fact, touch the ground,

you could use ordinary lumber.

1. With the parts list (p. 6) and Figures 1

and 2 to guide you, cut all pieces for the

floor frame to length (wear a dust mask

when you cut PT lumber) and treat the cut

ends. Lay out the joist locations – 16" on

centre – on the inner rim joists. Note that

the measurement to the centre of the first

joist from the end must take into account

the 3" thickness of the double rim). Leave

a 3 ⁄ 4 " space between the two laminated

4. Two-and-a-half sheets of 5 ⁄ 8 " tongue-

and-groove plywood are required to cover

the floor for the dwelling part of the build-

ing. Square up the floor – diagonals must

be equal – and screw the plywood to the

floor frame.

5. Level the floor frame, if required.

SIDE WALLS

1. Cut the side wall pieces to length. Note

that the window headers consist of two

2 x 6s laminated together with a piece of

1 ⁄ 2 " plywood between as a spacer. Also, the

Designer and builder Wayne Lennox first constructed the Cottage Life Bunkie on site at the

Spring Cottage Life Show. Here, he’s prepping the double rim-joist floor framing.

bunkie joists that sit at the 10' mark and

the first deck joist. This gap allows rain and

melt-water to drain between the boards.

2. Nail or screw the inner frame together.

(The 3 1 ⁄ 2 " deck screws in the hardware list

[p. 9] are needed only if you are screwing the

frame together.) Remember to keep joist

crowns up; the crown is the convex edge of

a board when viewed from the end. Nail or

screw the outer rim joists to the inner frame.

3. Cut bridging pieces to length and install

between floor joists.

Tip: When you measure for the bridging,

take your measurements between the joists

where they are secured to the rim, not in

the middle. After installing two or three

bridging pieces, check the cumulative mea-

surement of bridging and joists and com-

pare with the measure at the rim joist to be

sure you’re not bending the joists out of

line. Adjust the next piece you install to

compensate, if needed.

6 x 6 by 43 1 ⁄ 2 " side headers are mitred 45°

at the porch end and notched at the other

end (Figures 14 and 16). Drill two 1 ⁄ 2 "

holes – preferably with a Forstner bit – in

the face of each side header, as in Figure 14.

Drill clearance holes. Cut eight 1 ⁄ 2 " plugs

and put them aside for now. (A plug cutter

is an inexpensive accessory available at any

lumber or hardware store. Use it to make

your own matching plugs from castoffs. Of

course, there are also commercially avail-

able plastic plugs.)

2. Lay out the stud locations on the bottom

and top plates as in Figure 3 (make sure

that your layout is consistent with the

rough opening for your windows). Note

also that the centres are not all 16". When

siding, start from the porch end. The edge

of the second 4 x 8 sheet will line up with

the middle of a stud marked with an X. The

remaining piece is 2' wide (a 4 x 8 sheet

ripped in half provides the 2' pieces).

FLOOR

Footings (six in all) will need to be in place

before construction can begin.

I am partial to a double rim joist at the

base of structures like this because of its

greater strength, especially at interlocking

corners. And I like pressure-treated (PT)

lumber for any part of a structure close to

The Cottage Life Bunkie

3. Nail or screw the wall frame together on

the ground, adding the double top plate last

(lay out the location of the rafters on the

double top plate first, starting from the porch

end). Do not add the 6 x 6 side headers yet.

4. Cut the 2 x 4 blocking to length and nail

between the studs.

5. We selected Canexel 4 x 8 pre-finished

panels for this project for a number of rea-

sons: sub-sheathing is unnecessary, siding

time is reduced, and they look good. On

the downside, there is a limited colour

selection and the finish is only under war-

ranty for five years, so repainting could be

necessary after that. Cut five sheets to a

length of 93 1 ⁄ 2 " (good-side down to avoid

chipping on that side). Rip one piece in

half, lengthways.

6. Lay the sheets on the wall so that the

edges meet the top plate. Transfer the loca-

tion of the rafters on the edges of the

sheathing. Remove the siding and cut 1 1 ⁄ 2 "

by 5 3 ⁄ 4 " notches where marked (see Figure

14). The siding panels will sit proud of the

top plate. These notches allow the rafters

to sit tight against the plates and also let

the siding butt against the bottom of the

roof boards thereby sealing the building

from drafts. You can be a little generous

with the cuts as small gaps can be filled

with caulking.

7. Lay the siding pieces back on the walls,

making sure that the bottom edges are 3"

below the bottom plates (this lip can later be

nailed to the rim joist). Square up the frame

and nail the siding to the wall using 2" galva-

nized ardox nails, spaced about 8" apart.

You’ll need a couple of helpers to lift the walls in place. Note the notches cut into the top of

the siding panels. These allow the bird's mouth rafters to fit snugly againsts the top plate.

8. Find two helpers. Stand each wall up in

turn, being careful not to damage the bot-

tom edge of the panels. Line up the bottom

plates with the floor’s edges. Screw or nail

the bottom plates to the floor.

Tip: Don’t drive the nails home yet in case

you need to move the wall. Nail temporary

braces from the end studs to the rim joist.

The walls should tip out slightly at the top.

9. Add a 1 x 3 temporary, vertical brace at

the porch end (see photo, p. 5), from the

rim joist to the end of each top plate. Insert

the 6 x 6 side headers into the space created

when you framed the side walls. Screw to

the top plates and to the 2 x 4 studs. This is

also a helper-assisted procedure!

10. Drill a 1"-dia. by 2"-deep hole down

through the top plate and into the side

header where indicated in Figure 16. Drill a

5 ⁄ 16 " clearance hole all the way through.

11. If you have a reciprocating saw, cut out

the window openings from the inside. If

you only have a jig saw, drill holes through

the paneling at each corner, go outside,

draw lines between the outside radii of the

holes, and follow the lines to cut out the

window openings.

12. Do not add the 6 x 6 posts yet.

REAR WALL

1. Cut all the pieces and assemble the rear

wall as shown in Figures 8 and 9. Since

there are no window openings, cladding is

simply a matter of nailing the two 4' by 89"

panels to the assembled wall. Make sure

that the top edges of the panels are lined up

with the bottom edge of the top plate, i.e.,

between the two plates.

2. With a helper, lift the rear wall assembly

into place. Nail or screw the bottom plate to

the floor. Nail or screw the corners together.

Nail the 3 1 ⁄ 2 " overhangs to the side wall end

studs. Nail the bottom edge of each panel

to the rim joists.

Layout options for main floor

CLUB

CHAIR

BUILTIN

BENCH

TALL

BOOKSHELF

EASEL

THROW

CUSHIONS

CAFÏ

TABLE

DAYBED

LOW

BOOKSHELF

STORAGE

LOW

BOOKSHELF

STORAGE

DESK

SIDETABLE

DROP

DOWN

TABLE

FRONT WALL

1. Cut all front wall pieces to length (see

Figure 10). The header over the window

consists of two pieces of 2 x 4 laminated

together. Since the front wall is not a load-

bearing wall, the header over the door

PORCH

Guest cabin

Writer’s retreat

Kids’ space

The Cottage Life Bunkie

consists of a single 2 x 4 on the flat to pro-

vide the correct dimension for the entrance

door rough opening.

2. Nail or screw the frame together. Note

that the piece in the bottom plate, where

the door is located, will be removed after

the assembled wall is in place.

3. Trim two sheets of siding to 91".

4. Lay one panel on the wall over the door

opening, noting that the top edge should

be flush to the top of the double top plate,

side wall end studs. (If the floor is level and

the walls are square then, when assembled,

the walls should be plumb.)

8. Before you can cover the porch ceiling,

you will need to scab a 2 x 4 nailer to the

top of the front wall double top plate to act

as a nailing edge (see Figure 11). It should

extend about halfway over the leading edge

of the double top plate.

9. With all four walls in place, drive the bot-

tom plate nails home, cut out the openings

at both ends. (Mitring the 6 x 6 is a bit of

challenge if you do not own a 12" com-

pound sliding mitre saw: Mark your cut

line, then take passes with a circular saw

from either side. There will likely still be a

sliver of wood in the middle that you’ll

need to clear with a handsaw.) Drill two

1 ⁄ 2 " holes, 3 ⁄ 4 " deep in the end faces, as in

Figure 14.

3. Stand the end posts in place. Lag the

6 x 6 by 43 1 ⁄ 2 " side headers to the tops of

the posts with the 8" lag bolts. Plumb the

posts and toenail to the floor, keeping the

nails or screws below the line of the trim

(about 2"). For added strength, you can

also drive a few screws up into the post end

from the underside of the deck boards

(though it’s a little tricky, considering that

the piers may be in the way!)

4. Lift the 6 x 6 by 8' front header into

place. Attach it to the side headers with

outdoor glue and the #12 x 3 1 ⁄ 2 " screws.

Plug the holes (glue the plugs in place and

trim them after the glue dries).

5. Add the 2 x 6 top plate and screw or nail

it down to the front header. Drill a 1" hole

about 2" deep down through the 2 x 6 into

the top of each end of the 8' header . Drill a

5 ⁄ 16 " clearance hole as in Figure 16. Lag the

8' header to the end posts. Also screw the

side wall 2 x 4 top plate to the header using

#8 x 3" screws with clearance holes to min-

imize splitting.

6. Screw or nail the 2 x 4 nailing edge to

the 2 x 6, as in Figure 11.

7. According to the OBC , a deck does not

need a railing if it’s less than 2' above grade.

For decks higher than that, the railing must

be no less than 35" high. If the deck is higher

than 5'11" above grade, then the railing

must be 42" high. If you are installing the

optional railing assemblies, start by notching

the newel posts, as in Figure 15. Determine

where the newel posts will be situated and

mark 1 3 ⁄ 4 " by 3 1 ⁄ 2 " rectangles on the deck

boards. Remove the marked boards and cut

out the rectangles with a jigsaw. Replace the

boards, fit the newel posts into the holes,

and clamp in place. Make sure that, once

installed, the railing assembly will fit tightly

against the newel and corner posts. Drill two

3 ⁄ 8 " holes through the rim joists and each

newel post. Insert the 3 ⁄ 8 " x 6" carriage bolts,

add the washers and nuts, and tighten.

8. Cut pickets to length (36" or 38", see

below) and router all four edges with a

The bunkie loft extends out over the porch. For an extra 3 1 ⁄ 2 ' of floorspace on the ground level

you could modify the plans, eliminating the porch and moving the front wall forward

and the left side should be 3 1 ⁄ 2 " past the

end stud (this lip will be nailed to the side-

wall end stud). Square everything up and

tack the sheet in place. Have a helper lift

the upper end of the wall up off the floor,

high enough so that you can trace the

opening for the door. Lay the wall back

down, remove the sheet and cut out the

opening for the door. While you’re at it, cut

out notches for the 6 x 6 side header and

for the rim joists (include the thickness of

the plywood floor in this calculation).

5. Lay the panel back down and nail it to

the frame.

6. Lay the other sheet on the frame and nail

it down.

7. Remove the two braces from the side

walls and, with a helper, lift the front wall

into place. Nail or screw the bottom plate

to the floor. Nail or screw the corners

together. Nail the 3 1 ⁄ 2 " overhangs to the

for the front window and door, and then

cut out the sill space for the door opening.

PORCH

I chose cedar for the front porch – despite

its rather steep cost – chiefly because it is

hard to find 6 x 6 pine (my preferred mate-

rial). PT is a lot cheaper but far less attrac-

tive than cedar, unless painted or stained.

1. Cut the 5 ⁄ 4 x 6 deck boards to length –

allowing for 1" of overhang at the front – and

nail or screw to the joists. A clearance hole

may be needed at the board ends to prevent

splitting. Begin in the centre and work your

way out evenly to both sides, leaving a 3 ⁄ 8 "

gap between the boards. The last two boards

may have to be ripped – make sure to leave

a 1" overhang as well. If you were careful,

each end board should be the same width.

2. Cut the two 6 x 6 porch posts and the

front header to length; the header is mitred

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