Lighted Display Cabinet.pdf
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lighted display
cabinet
© 2009 August Home Publishing Co.
H
eirloom
P
roject
l
igHted
d
isPlay
c
abinet
Stylish glass doors and interior lighting put the contents on display, but
the design and construction of this cabinet holds a few surprises.
Deck copy.
T
his lighted display cabinet
can be the per fect accent
piece for just about any room in the
house. The beveled glass doors and
shelf allow you to display your col-
lectibles to full advantage. And the
small scale of the cabinet means it
will fit in almost any space.
But from a woodworking per-
spective, when you look at it you’re
probably thinking about the mortise
and tenon joinery and an expensive
hardwood used for its construction.
You might be surprised to learn
that this project relies on simple,
but strong pocket-hole joiner y.
This means it’s quick and easy to
build. And the expensive-looking
wood is simply poplar stained with
a blend of gel stains.
All these elements combine to give
you a great-looking project that’s both
easy to build and relatively inexpen-
sive. The best of both worlds.
1
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© 2009 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
Top conceals pocket screw
holes and wiring channels
Construction Details
NOTE:
Underside of top
is beveled on three edges
Overall Dimensions:
34" x 13" x 32"
Routed channel
holds wiring for
recessed lights
Pocket-hole joinery
used for case and
base construction
Interior lights are
recessed in shallow
holes in case top
Rabbets in
cabinet sides
hold plywood
back
Beveled glass panels
allow clear view of
items inside cabinet
Shelf pins
in sleeves
allow easy
adjustment
of glass shelf
Cabinet doors
assembled with
easy-to-c
u
t
half-lap joinery
Euro-style
concealed
hinges make
fitting inset
doors a
breeze
Screws connect base
to the cabinet case
Stout legs provide
a solid base for
the cabinet
Curved rails on base
add decorative detail
cutting Diagram
Hardwood
glass stop
holds panel
in rabbet
1"x 7!/2"- 96" Poplar (Two boards @ 6.3 Bd. Ft. each)
D
D
A
A
D
D
L
Pewter
knob and
escutcheon
complement
glass doors
#/4"x 6!/2"- 96" Poplar (4.3 Bd. Ft.)
J
H
H
H
H
G
G
#/4"x 6"- 96" Poplar (4 Bd. Ft.)
E
E
F
F
I
I
I
I
1"x 6"- 96" Poplar (5 Bd. Ft.)
B
B
K
B
1"x 6"- 36" Poplar (1.9 Bd. Ft.)
B
Also needed: One 48"x 48"
sheet !/4" Birch plywood
2
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© 2009 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
NOTE:
Back is
attached later
Countersink
holes for #8 x 1#/4"
Fh woodscrew
1!/2" pocket
hole screw
Notch out
back to match
channel notch
in top
N
29
TOP
VIEW
a.
b.
SIDE VIEW
Dry fit back
only. Secure
after
finishing
cabinet
!/2
B
C
BACK
(!/4"ply.)
A
A
CASE SIDE
A
!/4
1!/2"
pocket hole
screws
2
6#/4
Support
sleeve
Shelf pin
c.
Support
sleeve
"beveled glass
#/8
B
2
25
CASE TOP
B
2
A
CASE
SIDE
Shelf pin
Glass
shelf
(#/8" x 9#/4"- 27&/8")
(/32"-dia.
hole,#/8"
deep
25
10!/4
Light
d.
2!/8"-dia. hole
%/8"deep
Inside
view
8#/4
&/8
10#/4
5
&/8
B
TOP
B
7
Back
edge
Countersink for #8 x 1#/4"
Fh woodscrew to attach top
CASE BOTTOM
28
NOTE:
Top, bottom,
and sides are made
of 1"-thick stock
Back edge
e.
11
1
!/2
Light
wire channel
#/8"-deep
5
6!/2
TOP
VIEW
B
easy to Build case & Base
NOTE:
See box below for tips
on routing the wiring channel
!/2
Pocket
hole
!/2"-dia.
Like most cabinets, this project
begins with a solid case. And since
the case relies on pocket-hole join-
ery, making it
c
ouldn’t be easier.
As I said earlier, I used poplar for
this cabinet. And you might find
boards wide enough for the top, bot-
tom, and sides of the case at your
lumberyard. But I chose to glue-up
narrower stock instead. The glued-
up panels are less likely to cup with
changes in humidity.
The sides.
After cutting the sides
to inal size, I added a rabbet on
the back edge of each piece to hold
the
1
⁄
4
" plywood back panel. With a
dado blade installed in the table saw,
cutting the
1
⁄
4
" x
1
⁄
2
" rabbet is pretty
straightforward (detail ‘b’).
To complete the sides, you’ll need
to drill the shelf-pin holes. I just
marked the locations, as shown in
the main drawing above, and drilled
these holes at my drill press.
TOp & BOTTOm.
Now it’s time to work
on the top and bottom. Note that
they’re not the same width as the
sides. Both pieces are
1
⁄
4
" narrower
than the sides to allow for the addi-
tion of the plywood back.
The top and bottom have pocket
holes drilled on each end to join
them to the sides. The top also
requires a little more work to create
the recesses for the lights and rout
a channel for the wiring (detail ‘d’).
The box at the bottom of the page
shows an easy way to do this.
how-to: install recessed lights
Straightedge
NOTE:
Use !/2"
straight bit
to rout channel
between holes
2!/8"-dia.
Forstner bit
Light
recess
Back
edge
Wire
channel
Drill !/2"-
dia. holes,
#/8" deep
Drill End Holes.
After laying
out the channel for the wir-
ing, drill a hole at each end.
Rout the Channel.
With a
straightedge clamped to the
top, rout the
3
⁄
8
"-deep channel.
Rout the Exit Channel.
Move
the straightedge to rout the
perpendicular exit channel.
Drill Light Recess.
Using a
Forstner bit in the drill press,
drill the recesses for the lights.
3
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© 2009 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
a.
TOP VIEW
Holes for
#8 x 1!/2"
wood
screws
G
#8 x 2"
Fh woodscrew
3#/4
BASE TOP
1#/4
11!/4"
2#/4
NOTE:
Rails are inset
!/4" from
outside faces
of legs
G
1#/4
&/8
Hole for
#8 x 2" woodscrew
F
&/8
30!/2
11!/2
D
NOTE:
Countersink holes
for #8 woodscrews
D
E
3!/2
#8 x 1!/2"
Fh woodscrew
b.
SIDE VIEW
SIDE RAIL
F
E
FRONT RAIL
#/4
D
LEG
2!/2
1
E
3!/2
26
1
3!/2
7
Chamfer
#/4
c.
D
LEG
END VIEW
5!/4
2!/4
Chamfer
F
NOTE:
Rails and
top are made
of #/4"-thick stock
3!/2
Chamfer
bit
E
F
G
!/16
NOTE:
Base top
is centered on back,
case is centered
on base top
NOTE:
Drill pocket holes
before cutting the arcs
in the rails
2
2
AssemBly.
Assembling the case
with pocket hole screws is a breeze.
I ind it helpful to clamp the assem-
bly while driving the screws to
keep the joints lush and square.
Finally, cut the plywood back to
size and set it aside. Adding it later
makes finishing the cabinet easier.
platform for the cabinet. A solid top
fits over the base, which makes it
easy to connect the base to the
case with screws.
sTArT wiTh The legs.
To get the 2"
thickness necessar y for the legs, I
glued up two thinner pieces. Then,
all you need to do is cut them to
inal size and add a
1
⁄
16
" chamfer to
the corners and bottom edges.
Add The rAils.
All four rails have
an arc cut on the lower edge. But
before you cut these, it’s a good
idea to drill the pocket holes.
To cut the arcs in the rails, see
the box below. You can smooth the
edges using a sanding drum. Then,
add a
1
⁄
16
" chamfer to the bottom
edge. Now you’re ready to assemble
the rails and legs with screws.
The BAse TOp.
To complete the base,
cut the top to size and drill screw
holes in the locations shown above.
Add a
1
⁄
16
" chamfer to the top and
bottom edges to match the rails.
After fastening the top to the
rail and
leg assembly, center the case on the
base and attach it with screws.
Add The BAse
After assembling the case, you’re
ready to get to work on the base.
The front, back, and side rails con-
nect to short legs to form a stable
make the curved-rails
Block
a.
TOP VIEW
FIRST:
Place center block on
centerline, with the point 1"
from edge
SECOND:
Position end blocks
to hold wood strip on corner
Waste
side
NOTE:
Use double-sided tape
to hold blocks in position
Lay Out the Arcs.
To lay out the curve of
the rails, start by attaching a block at the cen-
terline, marking the highest point of the arc.
Next, bend a thin strip of hardwood to the
end point of the curve and add a block on
each end. Now trace the curve with a pencil.
Cut t
he
Rail.
At the band saw,
carefull
y
cut the arc, making sure to
stay on the waste side of the line.
4
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2009 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
Plik z chomika:
aramita
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