FF_patterns_manswaistcoat.pdf

NOTES :

1. Fabric grain follows vertical lines of graph paper.

2. Pattern pieces are drawn without seam allowance.

3. The waistcoat is back-stitched; lining and pocket laps

are whip-stitched.

4. Center-front closure of twenty-two - inch-diameter

self-covered buttons with ifteen 1 ¼-inch functional

buttonholes reinforced with buttonhole stitch that

extends ½ inch beyond the buttonhole opening; seven

buttons are non-functional.

5. Six /8 -inch diameter self-covered non-functional

buttons are located below each pocket opening.

Finished pocket laps conceal most of the buttons.

Man’s Waistcoat , France, c. 1750, silk cut, uncut, and voided velvet

(ciselé) on satin foundation, center-back length: 27 1/2 in. (69.85 cm),

purchased with funds provided by Suzanne A. Saperstein and Michael

and Ellen Michelson, with additional funding from the Costume Council,

the Edgerton Foundation, Gail and Gerald Oppenheimer, Maureen H.

Shapiro, GraceTsao, and Lenore and Richard Wayne, M.2007.211.812,

6. Side seams terminate at pocket.

The back of the waistcoat is composed of linen plain

weave.The collar line and the armscye are inished

on the inside with a 1-inch bias strip of the same linen.

The center-back seam is only sewn 8 ½ inches from

the top. Beneath this seam, eleven pairs of eyelets

(round holes reinforced with thread) line a 19 ½-inch

open-seam slit.These are interlaced with twill-tape

to adjust the size.

This handsewn sleeveless waistcoat is made of silk cut,

uncut, and voided velvet ( ciselé ).The meandering ribbon

and acorn pattern was woven to follow the edges of the

center-front and hem of the inished garment in a method

known as à disposition .The concept of weaving textiles

in this way originated in Lyon, France. When worn, the

woven design appears to curve at the center-front open-

ing because of long darts at the waist; these darts,

hidden by the pocket laps, assure a iner it.

As suit coats became closer-itting in the mid-

eighteenth century, sleeveless waistcoats became

more common. This example limits the use of luxurious

velvet to the waistcoat’s front where it would have

been most visible when worn under a coat.

8. To further adjust size, two pairs of ½-inch-wide linen

tapes, each about 18 inches long, are sewn at the side

seam, one at 18 ¾ and one at 8 ¾ inches from the hem

and tied at the center back.

9. Center-front edges and skirts are stiffened with

an interlining.

10. The waistcoat fronts, pockets, and pocket laps are

lined with linen plain weave.

Man’s waistcoat , France, c. 1750

POCKET FLAP

UPPER

POCKET

LINING

UNDER

POCKET

LINING

FRONT

BACK

Pocke t

placement

line

Pocket button

placement

SCALE DRAwING OF

CISELé vELvET DESIGN

1: 1 Inch

CF = Center front

CB = Center back

Patterns recreated and drawn byThomas John Bernard

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