AFV Modeller - Issue 02 - 2 - Winter Wonderland Part 1. JS-1.pdf - AFV Modeller - bonsaiPL

WINTER WONDERLAND

Part One

MR.JOECOOL By Adam

Wilder

Photographs Adam Wilder & Miguel Jimenez MIG

A winter camouflage can add a very dynamic appearance to your

armour model. If your imagination is strong enough, adding a winter

camouflage will bring you to a cooler climate on that hot summer

day, or maybe help bring in the holiday spirit on that early November

morning. Although it makes for an exciting finish helping to separate

your model from other dark-green, yellow, and German-grey models

in your curio, a realistic winter camouflage can be time consuming

to apply.

an extra sprue added containing JS-1 parts) to get a closer

representation of the actual vehicle. After covering the construction, I

will go through each painting step. I will then explain how I applied

the seven-step winter camouflage. I will then finish this article by

showing how I used different weathering processes in a random way

to help break up the model giving it a three-dimensional appearance.

Lets quickly look at the construction of the DML JS-1.

The DML JS-1

Upon viewing the Russian publication Armada No. 6 “The IS Tanks by

M.S. Svirin”, I found a couple of views of a production JS-1. I felt that the

subject in those photos would be a good subject for this winter

camouflage article. The JS-1 is very similar to its famous predecessor.

The DML JS-1 kit needs some small modifications to make it a more

accurate production of a JS-1. Along with those modifications, lets not

forget the typical corrections we have all encountered when constructing

one of the DML JS tanks or its variants. One example is the sponsons

under the hull that need to be constructed. I fabricated mine using

Evergreen plastic. Lets quickly discuss some of the other smaller details.

There are numerous articles in various publication that will help give

beautiful winter camouflages to your models when followed closely.

With this article I am going to try and sacrifice some of that beauty

for realism. You will probably find this method to be more tedious

and time consuming then some of the other methods previously

documented.

What we are going to do…

I will start by quickly showing you with the aid of photos how to

basically correct the DML JS-1 kit (which is simply their JS-2 kit with

Weld Seams

Hull Rear

The locations of the weld seams attaching the front casting to the rest

of the hull on the DML kit are different from the drawings I have

viewed in publications by accredited authors. To correct this problem

I made my own weld seams from stretched sprue. I glued the sprue

in place with Testors liquid plastic cement. After applying the cement I

waited five minutes to let the sprue soften. I then took my exacto-

knife with a new blade and carefully textured the weld seams giving

them a rough surface. After texturing, I applied some more liquid

cement over the welds and let them dry. All weld seams on this

model were done using the same technique. The photo below shows

the correct location of the weld seam fastening the front casting to

the rest of the hull.

The picture of the hull rear below shows the relocation of the lifting

eye in the upper right corner. A bolt has been added approximately

where the lifting eye was originally located. This needs to be done on

each side of the hull rear. The bolts were made from Evergreen using

a hexagonal punch-and-die set. Notice that rings made from

soldering wire were added to the two-rear transmission hatch covers.

Textured Hull, Turret Casting, and More

Weld Seams

Although the DML kit has a fairly realistic texture representing the

castings, I thought that these surfaces were still too uniform. I went

over the rest of the cast surfaces with a mixture of Testers liquid

cement and Tamiya modelling putty as shown above. I applied the

putty/liquid cement mixture with an old brush. The weld seam joining

the upper and lower castings of the turret was also redone. Weld

seams were also added around the turret lifting hooks.

Other Added Goodies

The picture above shows the brass fender supports manufactured by

The Show Modelling. The turned aluminium gun and resin mantlet

manufactured by CMK item no. HB021, can also be easily seen. The

mantle was about 1/32” narrow on one side.

This gap was easily filled with a piece of Evergreen that was glued

into place then sanded to size. The seam was then filled with putty

and textured to match the rest of the mantle.

I was not happy with the detail on the ends of the toolbox so I

sanded them smooth and added my own handles from copper wire.

The toolbox hold-downs were made from copper sheet. The spacers

and bolts are punched pieces of Evergreen. Please note that the

directions in the DML kit instruct you to glue one rectangular toolbox

on each side of the hull. I think DML incorrectly assumed the smaller

toolbox on the left side of the prototype to be another standard

rectangular toolbox. The smaller toolbox is not present in the few

photos I have viewed of the production JS-1s.

Opposite, you will notice a close up of the work needed to backdate

the fenders, as well as detail the shackle holders, horn, and light.

The brass fender supports, shackle holders, and buckles are from

The Show Modelling set. The light and horn brackets along with the

front of the fenders were all fabricated from sheet copper. The

brackets holding the front of the fender in place were fabricated from

sheet plastic. The lead foil gussets where not included in The Show

Modelling set. The boss where the light and horn wires protrude is

Evergreen rod and stretched sprue. The wire was manufactured by

Detail Master item, no. DM1102.

Rear Hull-Top

The detail on the rear hull-top was minimal. On the picture at the

bottom of the page, you can see the brass exhaust directors.

The Evergreen plastic strips on the side of the louvers are simply

hiding some sinkholes. I cut and sanded off the molded bolts,

applied the Evergreen strips, then new bolts where added.

Exterior Fuel Tanks

The Show Modelling etched brass set included the exterior fuel tank

straps but I could not get them firmly glued to the tanks. Instead I

constructed my own straps and mounts from Evergreen plastic strip.

The Show Modelling etched-brass set included the tightening bolts

which where used. I added the weld seams and Show Modelling

brass handles on the fuel tanks.(Right)

The Assembled Model

As you can see the construction of the JS-1 was fairly basic. I like to

keep my running gear separate from the model until after painting for

ease of weathering. Now with an understanding of the minor

corrections needed to assemble the DML JS-1 lets jump into the fun

part of painting this mama!

Post Shading

Post-shading is a way of adding an artificial shadow to your model,

helping to give it a scaled appearance. The secret to post-shading is

not making it look obvious. Using my air tank and Tamiya airbrush, I

post-shaded the JS-1 with a mixture of five parts Tamiya Dark Green,

one part Tamiya Sand, and a few drops of clear. I carefully sprayed

the flat areas of the JS-1 focusing primarily on the top horizontal

surfaces. (see below.) Notice that I did not shade the gun.

PAINTING

JOECOOL

Applying the Base Coat

In the top right you have a view of the completed JS-1. Below the

picture is the running gear. Leaving the running gear attached to the

sprues allows you to easily airbrush and weather them. I have an air

tank and a Tamiya Super Fine airbrush to help me with the complex

detailing, but when applying the base coat, I simply use my old trusty

Brown air compressor and a double-acting Badger airbrush. I used

Tamiya Dark Green acrylic paint for the base coat. I mixed a ratio

approximately 60% paint and 40% Tamiya thinner with four to five

drops of Tamiya clear.

When spraying the base, I apply four to five very light coats of paint.

Five light coats of extremely thinned paint provide you with a

smoother finish displaying the detail better then two thick coats.

The photos in the top right show the JS-1 with only the base coat.

After applying the base coat, my compressor and Badger airbrush

were no longer used on this model.

castings. This was to insure that I did NOT obtain an unrealistic dry-

brushed appearance. After I finished brushing the oil paints onto the

model, I placed it in my curio away from any dust, and let it sit for

two days.

Test Pieces

I cannot emphasise this enough!!!!! Test pieces allow you to

experiment and make errors without harming the model while trying

new paints and techniques. I always have three 3” pieces made from

Evergreen sheet plastic on my desk. I sprayed them with the same

base coat as the JS-1. The piece on the right was used to test the

shade of my post-shading colour.

The picture to the bottom left shows the oils being applied to the

model. Notice the smooth, glossy, pleasing, but unrealistic finish.

The glossy appearance will be reduced in the upcoming weathering

steps to take on a more realistic appearance of painted steel. Note

how the seams and details are now more apparent.

Where Are We?

By this point I have now assembled and painted the JS-1. I will

continue this article with applying the winter camouflage. Winter

camouflages used during the Second World War were usually made

from a lime whitewash applied with various mops, rags, and brushes.

Using a lime wash was convenient because it simply washed away

when the spring rains began. Because the lime did not adhere to the

tank like paint, the winter camouflage was easily scratched and

chipped away by the crew, stowage and terrain. Consequently, the

tank was left with a very rough, scratched, and muddied appearance

that is now difficult for us modellers to simulate. In the next part of

this article I will explain how I simulated that appearance.

Adding Oils

Carefully brushing light, transparent coats of oils can highlight seams

and details and add depth to your model. You can use this technique

as an alternative to washes. Oil paints dry very slowly giving you

more then enough time to work and blend them. You need to be alert

when brushing on artist’s oils because you could break off small

brass parts if not careful.

I used two soft high quality brushes. I used the big brush for the flat

surfaces and the larger components of the model while hitting the

small details with the smaller brush. On a piece of scrap Evergreen I

mixed a green-brown colour using toothpicks. I then added a little

gloss. I carefully dipped my brush into the oil paint then wiped off as

much as I could from the brush onto the Evergreen. (see above.)

When applying oils to your model for the first time in this manner, I

would recommend practicing on one of your test pieces.

When brushing on the oils to the JS-1, I really needed to take my

time and work them into the concave areas of the turret and hull

AFV Modeller - Issue 02 - 2 - Winter Wonderland Part 1. JS-1.pdf

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