fueltank.pdf

Step By Step: Complete Fuel Tank Restoration, Inside & Out

Over the past 40 years the fuel tank has been slowly

developing rust especially if it has been stored for any

period of time. It begins as surface rust and then the rust

particles fall off into the fuel tank, collecting in the bottom

and slowly getting flushed down the fuel lines into your fuel

filters. Once you see clogged filters then it’s time for a

complete fuel tank restoration. This takes about $70 and

four days to get this job done right. But it’s also a fairly easy

task that any T34 owner can do in their own garage with

minimal tools & skills.

overnight. Day Two: seal off the openings with tape before

pouring in the Metal Ready. This can sit all day if the tank is

really rusty but it needs to be agitated regularly and no

overnight treatments. Rotate the tank to cover all surfaces,

let sit for a couple hours, then drained back into the

container (reusable), rinsed with a gallon of hot water (not

a high-pressure hose) and then let dry for several hours.

Day Three: add the Sealer and rotate the tank to cover all

areas. You’ve got 20 minutes before the goo begins to set,

then drain and let dry 24 hours, fully cured in 4 days.

RESTORING THE OUTSIDE: While the tank is drying over the

next four days, remove the rust and old paint on the outside

of the tank with sandpaper. Paint the exterior surfaces first

in a rust-preventative primer and then with a couple coats

of gloss-black premium paint. Paint the four tank brackets

with silver for a new look. The tank will be covered anyway

with the cardboard mat & vinyl lining, but it’ll look nicer and

you’ll know you did a complete job. Finally, sand-down

your old fuel cap and paint it glossy silver and add a

couple coats of clear-coat.

BUYING THE PARTS: From POR-15 ( www.por15.com or 800

457 6715) buy their Fuel Tank Kit including Marine Clean

(cleans residue & gunk), Metal Ready (removes the rust and

leaves a zinc phosphate coating for the sealer to bond to),

& US Standard Fuel Tank Sealer (forms a liner inside the tank

filling-in any pinholes and cracks) for $53 total with shipping.

From Home Depot or any hardware store buy four new

bracket bolts (M8-1.25mm x 20mm) for $3 and Camper

Mounting Tape (1.25” x 30 feet) for $5 which is a

compressed foam seal for the rim of the tank. From your

local VW supplier buy a new fuel tank kit (screen filter,

gasket, nut, & tube for $8), fresh fuel hose ($1.50/foot), a

3.25” piece of fuel tank breather hose (10mm inner

diameter), & a fuel sender gasket. A new Type III fuel

sender will cost $75, so check your used one first (see

“Testing Your Connections” paragraph). And buy rubber

gloves to be safe when handling the chemicals.

REMOVING THE TANK: Try to leave less than a quarter tank

of gasoline before you start. Open the front hood &

remove the center mat and black paper covering to see

the tank. Use a 13mm socket to remove the four bracket

bolts. Put all your parts into a cardboard box so it’ll be easy

to find them again. Next pull up on the tank filler neck and

pull the tank up so you can see the fuel line and remove it

from the metal line into the body. Fold the fuel line back on

itself to stop the gas from coming out. Lift the tank out of

the car. Drain the excess gas into a bucket or container.

Remove the sending unit from the top by taking out the six

8mm bolts. Remove the tube fitting from the bottom (and

the remains of what once was the fuel filter screen).

CLEANING THE TANK: Add a metal chain inside the empty

tank and thrash it liberally to remove any flaky rust, then

dump the debris out and it’ll be clear why you are doing

this work. Day One: Combine Marine Clean with hot water

in the tank for a couple hours to degrease, empty the

brown sludge, rinse with the

REPLACING FOAM INSULATION: Strip off the old foam

insulation from around the perimeter of the fuel tank area.

Cut the new foam strips and stick them into place. Leave

spaces for the four mounting brackets. Connect the new

metal tube & fuel hose before installing the tank. Once

installed, connect the fuel hose to the main fuel line on the

car. Install the new gasket under the fuel sender unit and

connect the sender wire. Now you’re almost done.

TESTING YOUR CONNECTIONS: to check if your sender is

working properly remove the sender wire from the sender

on the tank and with the ignition key ON touch the sender

wire to a ground bolt on your T34. If the fuel gauge needle

shows a full tank then your sender connections are good.

Replace the sender wire on the sender and it should

then you may have a grounding problem. A bouncing fuel

gauge needle is also a grounding problem. This is caused

by poor grounding of the sending unit-to-tank or tank-to-

body. You can spend an hour cleaning the electrical

connections & metal contacts at the bolts, or you can

simply run a short wire from the fuel sender to under one of

the gas tank mounting brackets. This wire will be hidden by

the cardboard tank cover as well as the trunk liner and the

problem will go away.

pressured hose, & let dry

www.PureT34.org

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